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 [ 2:. - [ electromagnetic destruction for dummies ]  [Joe-ph33r] :. ]
                                              [Joe-ph33r@b0g.org] :. ]
 ____________________________________________________________________



 Disclaimer:

 This article is provided for informational purposes only. neither I,
 b0g or anyone but yourself will be held responsible for anything
 you may or may not do. In short if you build one of these things
 drive around silicon valley doing drivebys on high-tech industry...
 I am not to blame, YOU are the one to blame. blah blah, yadda yadda.



 Warning:

 Many of the devices described in this article use high voltages and
 currents that won't just kill you, but will probably blow you apart
 too. Also these devices can emit electromagnetic radiation at high
 enough levels and frequency to be harmful to biological organisms.

 The devices described in this article are illegal to build in most
 countries and using them comes under anti-hacking laws in many.
 


 Introduction:

 Allot of people know that when a atomic bomb detonates it produces a
 powerful electromagnetic pulse via the compton effect, which can
 transfer enough power to electrical equipment near the detonation
 to disrupt/damage it. Now most people don't have a atomic bomb so
 if they want to disrupt/damage electrical equipment they will have
 to make do with something commonly called a 'EMP gun' also know as a
 RF/radio cannon or HERF gun. (though it is not quite HERF, it should
 do the job of frying electronics well). In this article i can going
 to explain how to construct 3 types electromagnetic weapon. One is a
 omnidirection RF burst device, another a RF gun and lastly a
 microwave gun.

 The basic idea of the RF weapon is to generate a high powered, burst
 of electromagnetic radio frequency radiation so enough power will be
 transferred via the electromagnetic radiation that it will
 disrupt/damage the target in some way. (commonly called EMI
 (Electro-Magnetic Interference)) Which with computers this can range
 from crashing the machine, which is called a 'softkill', to totally
 fusing its IC's, which is called a 'hardkill'. One person has called
 these type of weapons 'a poor mans nuke' as a powerful RF weapon
 could easily give 'The Wall Street Crash' a whole new meaning.
 
 People make the common mistake of thinking that RF weapons are very
 different to EMP weapons, they are not. they are only different in
 one way, that a EMP does not have a radio frequency, and the pulse
 is usually a one spike, unlike RF weapons that generate a high
 powered sine wave for a very short time. Though both use
 electromagnetic radiation in very high levels to damage the target,
 so the in the end result either type of weapon will get a
 'hardkill', though RF weapons have one big advantage over EMP
 weapons, in that because the radiation is at radio frequency, so the
 majority of the radiation given of by the weapon can be guided
 towards a target using a waveguide, where as the radiation from EMP
 weapon spread out in all directions, so 99.9% of it, is probably
 not being transferred to the target.


 Construction Methods:

 The are 3 easy ways to build a RF weapon:

 The first one uses a large high voltage capacitor bank to provide
 the huge alternating current to generate a RF burst, though unlike
 the other methods the frequency will be to low for the radiation
 to be guided effectively by a waveguide, unless you reduce the
 capacitance of the capacitor bank significantly or raise the
 voltage of the capacitor bank significantly, either of these
 things should raise the frequency significantly.

 The second a sparkgap discharge from a MARX bank to generate a RF
 burst.

 The third uses continuos directed microwave radiation, from a
 magnetron tube.
 


 [Method 1] [Omnidirection Destroyer]

 for constructing this RF weapon you will need:


 1. A large high voltage non-polarized capacitor or capacitor bank.
 (capacitor bank == many capacitors hooked up in parallel). I am
 only saying to use non-polarized capacitors as the is less danger
 of them blowing up.

 The capacitors i used for the weapon design 1, in this article are a
 5uF@20kV capacitor bank which would be approx 80cm by 40cm in size.
 Thought for move power if you can find higher voltage capacitors
 or/and giant ones, for example 50uF@50kV is even better! I would not
 go over 50kV though, as you will have big problems with insulation.
 An not under around 10kV as the pulse will probably be too weak. also
 the type of capacitor matter to and extent, as many capacitors will
 not be designed for this (well most) and won't work very well.
 
 You are probably thinking to yourself, where can i get mad-capacitors
 like that?#@? Well the are many answers to that, i myself have many
 high voltage capacitors (a 1.2uF@20kV bank in total) which i brought
 for a project from a army surplus store for around $35. You can buy
 new ones though they tend to be a bit expensive.
 If you get really stuck, you can always make a homemade capacitor
 out of a plastic dust bin, motor oil and a few other bits that you
 can find around the home, though it will be far less efficient than
 a manufactured one. I won't go into the construction in this article,
 though there are many sites on the internet that show you how to
 make high voltage capacitors out of junk. (I.E. plastic tubs, oil,
 tin foil, glass bottles, etc)



 2. A coil, of the right dimensions.

 The dimensions of the coil depends mainly on the rating of
 you're capacitors as well as the resistance of the sparkgap.
 For the capacitors I am using in this example (5uF@20kV) a
 good coil dimension would be:

 1.5 inside radius

 3  turns of wire

 using well insulated (20kV for this) 12 AWG (american wire
 gauge, thats 2.0523 in diameter, or you can use thicker wire if
 you can find it).

 This allows the very high current to alternate very fast using
 the capacitor as a electrical storage tank, though the sparkgap
 will provide an additional resistance effecting the current in
 the coil.

 If you are using a different rated capacitor and don't fancy
 doing the math to work out how your coil will perform, the are
 many programs & spreadsheets out there that will do the hardwork
 for you.
 

 3. A low VDC to high VDC step up circuit (for example 20 volts to
 20,000 volts), as we are aiming to charge the capacitors a close
 to there rated voltage as possible (20kV).
 
 This is quite simple and can be made with the flyback out
 of the back of an old color TV and a we other easy to find bits
 this circuit is a very simple one and can be found here:
 
 http://www.bithose.com/serfaq/REPAIR/F_hvinvert.html

 (if it is not there now, search at http://www.google.com for
 'simple high voltage generator')
 
 I would detail it with the circuit diagram, but I would have to
 include most of the document for legal reasons. All the parts for
 this are dead easy to find, and even if you have to buy all the
 parts new, it should not cost over $30. This is probably the
 most complex part of the device to build. (still simple though)
 
 4. A trigged sparkgap switch (or a even better a SCR if you can
 afford one and find one high enough rated, though they are very
 expensive new and probably very under rated for this purpose)

 As the only real choice for switching the current, is a sparkgap.
 though sparkgaps can be expensive. You can make a quick and
 dirty mechanically triggered sparkgap yourself. You need these
 things:

 1. A think plastic tube. Use a thick piece of drainpipe or
 something.

 2. Two big metal balls (at least 3cm in diameter) that will easily
 fit inside the pipe (make sure that the balls have at least a 2mm
 smaller diameter than the inside of the plastic pipe).

 3. Some flexible wire that is rated at 20kV+ (or whatever your
 capacitors are rated at)

 4. A piece of string.

 5. a thick small sheet of plastic (just big enough to cover one
 end of the tube) and some rubbery glue.

 6. A car battery. This connects to the voltage step up circuit.


 take your pipe and seal up one end with the plastic sheet and
 the rubbery glue. then take one of your large steel balls and fix is
 to the bottom of the tube at one end, before you do this remember to
 fix the wire to the ball. Then fix the string to the other ball and
 the wire to it also... the whole thing should look something like
 this (cross section):


                       4¦!3
                        ¦!
                 !!!!   ¦!
                 !||!   ¦!    ||
                 !||!   ¦!    ||1
                 !||!   ¦!    ||
                3!||!   ¦!    ||
                  ||!   ¦!    ||
                  ||!   ¦!    ||
                  ||!   ¦!    ||
                  ||!   ¦!    ||
                  ||!   ¦!    ||
                  ||!   ¦!    ||
                  ||!   ¦!    ||
                  ||!   ¦!    ||
                  ||!  _¦!    ||
                  ||! /      ||
                  ||!|  2  |  ||
                  ||! ___/   ||      the idea here is that when the
                  ||!         ||      string is released, the top
                  ||!         ||      electrode (the ball) drops an
                  ||!         ||      the circuit will be closed as
                  ||!         ||      a spark forms (this at first
                  ||!         ||      provides a very high
                  ||!         ||      resistance in the circuit but
                  ||!         ||      the resistance quickly drops
                  ||!         ||      to a few milliohms once the
                  ||!         ||      spark has formed).
                  ||!         ||
                  ||!         ||      the end of each wire goes to
                  ||!         ||      the capacitor bank.
                  ||!         ||
                  ||!         ||
                  ||!         ||
                  ||!  ___    ||
                  ||! /      ||
                  ||!|  2  |  ||
                __||_____/___||___
               |___________________|
                        5


 Of course the are easier ways to make a sparkgap, but this is a
 simple easy one and pretty safe to. I think :/
 
 Of course this is no where near as good or as efficient as a
 proper manufactured sparkgap, though it will do. If you want to make
 a sparkgap to your own design for this you can, this is just a
 suggested design, and not a very good one at that.


 
 -=Very Simple Circuit diagram=-



         These two wires go to the High voltage generator
         
         ¦               ¦
         ¦               ¦
         ¦               ¦
         ¦               ¦
         ¦               ¦
         ¦               ¦
         ¦               ¦
         ¦               ¦   
         -----CAPACITOR---------------------] TO SPARKGAP     
         ¦         
         ¦            
         ¦
         ¦                                  
         ----------COIL --------------------[ FROM SPARKGAP
                     
               

 As you can see this is a dead simple circuit, so it
 should make sense. as you can see the voltage step up
 circuit connects to the capacitor bank to charge it at 20kV.
 Then when the capacitors are fully charged the sparkgap allows
 the circuit to be closed and the energy stored in the
 capacitor bank to flow through the coil very quickly, and
 because the capacitors are non-polarized, the high current
 should alternate like crazy in the coil giving a radio
 frequency burst of electromagnetic radiation which will radiate
 from the coil in all directions. The final frequency of the
 pulse will be unregulated so will change rapidly as the
 voltage drops but it can go as high as somewhere around 300KHz
 though it really depends on the overall resistance of the
 circuit. Power levels (at Max not taking into account the
 resistance from the sparkgap and at Min taking a optimistic
 guess):

 Max: 1 gigawatts     ph33rs0me, but perhaps unrealistic because
                      of the added big resistance from the
                      sparkgap.

 Min: 200 megawatts   
 
 
 the burst will last for approx .2 of a millisecond
 


 Things to Remember:

 1. Make sure the voltage you charge the capacitors with is lower
 than the rating on the capacitor, otherwise the dielectric will
 break down and damage to the capacitors may result.

 2. the capacitors can sometimes recharge themselves a bit, so
 careful!
 
 3. careful with what you discharge the capacitors/capacitor bank
 with as shorting with some objects may cause them to vaporize or
 explode, or something like that. (i don't really know what will
 happen, but it you can bet it will be bad!)

 4. The discharge from the high voltage capacitors is totally
 lethal.

 5. make sure your hook up wire is as thick as possible.


 
 Damage and Range of this weapon:

 I have not built or tested one of these and that is the only real
 way to know, though at a guess i would say that at the least this
 design should be able to totally destroy a computer as far away as
 10 metres and at the most be able to destroy every electrical
 object in a office complex.




 [Method 2] [RF Pulse Gun]:

 This way is a bit less simple as the board RF frequency pulse is
 generated by a high powered sparkgap discharge, though unlike
 the last method, the pulse that is generated can be directed by a
 waveguide. For this design you will need:
 
 1. a good sized MARX generator setup, use a some nice big chunky
 capacitors. You can see a home made MARX generator setup here with
 construction information:

 http://home.earthlink.net/~jimlux/hv/marx.htm

 as i won't detail it here. (If that link didn't work just go to
 http://www.google.com and type 'MARX generator' it won't take you
 long to find the simple schematic, though you have to get the
 values right for the sparkgap distance, resistor levels etc.
 If you want to get rid of the sparkgap jitter, and you can afford
 it, you can replace the sparkgaps with SCR's or triggered
 sparkgaps. If you are thinking of building a very compact MARX
 generator, EG&G make a very compact sparkgap, though they might
 only supply them to the US military i suspect.
 
 2. A really thick plastic tube. These are easy to find, just
 use a bit of hosepipe or something.

 3. A simple waveguide.

 This easy to build of a bit of sheet metal, though some
 calculations will need doing to determine best angle (again the is
 software about to work all this out). It should look like a horn
 type thing when finished.

 a waveguide should look something like this (cross section):

          /
         /
        /                        @ == emitter coil
       /
      /                          though the waveguide shown on the
     /                           left should be allot more concave
    | @                          but my art-skillz are totally                                                                  
                                rubbish.
      
       
        
         
          


 the waveguide should basically guide the RF radiation
 towards the target, you can make the beam tight or wider beam,
 though the tighter beams will be more powerful and give the gun
 a greater effective range naturally. The waveguides ability guide
 the electromagnetic radiation also depends allot on the frequency
 of a pulse, as for instance a 500KHz pulse will take a waveguide
 300 metres across to guide it in the right direction, where as
 a pulse of around 80MHz will only take a waveguide of 3 metres
 across to guide it effectively, though waveguides do tend to be
 inefficient at frequencies under 700MHz. The frequency of the RF
 pulse for this type of weapon will be very wide, though should
 easily output radiation in the 100MHz+ range so a waveguide will
 work. I would measure the RF given off by the sparkgap discharge
 using a RF meter then design a simple waveguide to suit the
 frequency range.

 4. A low voltage DC to high voltage DC generator. If you actually
 need one of these depends on the voltage of the capacitors you are
 using in the MARX bank. So if you are using high voltage cap's you
 will need one. The link has been given in the construction details
 of the first design.
 
 I won't go into this one much, its not really that complex, though
 you might have problems with insulation if you are trying to build
 it as is uses very very high voltages. All you need to do is
 discharge the MARX generator through a sparkgap. The gap for the
 spark to jump is inside the pipe to stop the high voltage shorting
 over the nearby waveguide. (the sparkgap is at one end of the
 waveguide) Then the RF pulse is directed at towards the target by
 the waveguide. If you want an example of this look at the so called
 HERF gun at Infowarcon99 which used and ignition coil driver and
 sparkgap discharge to generate the RF energy. Though using a MARX
 bank the pulse will be a hell of allot more powerful, and toast a
 computer to 'extra crispy' levels. I have no idea what the effective
 range would be, as it depends allot on how powerful the discharge
 is from the MARX generator and to an extent how tight the waveguide
 is. If you want to see a example of a sparkgap RF generation weapon
 visit http://www.empherf.com where a chap called slava has built a
 RF weapon very similar to the one showed off at Infowarcon99,
 (infact almost a copy) though that only uses a ignition coil driver
 to provide the high voltage spark. The method using a MARX
 generator described above should be far, far more powerful than
 that, Oh yes.



 [Method 3] [Microwave Gun]:

 This is a very very simple way of building a Electromagnetic weapon,
 and will have a considerable range because of the high frequency.
 though the radiation given off will be around 2.5GHz so it will
 have harmful effects on biological organisms, so careful what you
 point it at as it will cook at long range and radiation can reflect
 back at you!

 Ok first you need to get your grubby hands on a microwave oven,
 so...

 Rip open the microwave oven, discharge all the capacitors then take
 out all the parts (intact, don't disconnect anything! and if you do
 have to disconnect anything to get the insides out of the case make
 sure you note exactly where all the wires went and reconnect them
 where you found them) take the magnetron tube, which should be
 positioned in a small cavity surrounded by a small waveguide at the
 top or side of the microwave oven and put a very tight long
 waveguide round it. (again you need to work out the best dimension
 here because i can't be bothered, though the horn should look like
 a very nearly straight pipe and won't have to be very long because
 of the wavelength) This should easily fry a computer at 50 metres
 very possibly much further if the waveguide is correct and you did
 not hack apart one of those old very low powered microwave ovens
 from the 80's. Oh you can point it at lightbulbs and they should
 light up too. The disadvantage of this weapon is that you have to
 have it plugged in at the mains, or have a portable generator with
 you.

 If you want to see what will happen to a computer when this microwave
 gun shoots it, put a calculator in a microwave oven and turn it on,
 at full power for only a few seconds.

 I advise against opening up microwave ovens through as they contain
 high voltage capacitors that even when the oven is unplugged, have
 easily enough charge to kill, also the microwave radiation produced
 by a device like this can cause deep thermal burns, blindness and
 other bad side effects. Though if you feel like having a try
 consulting the microwave oven repair FAQ at http://www.repairfaq.org
 to find out about how to take the insides of the oven out without
 getting yourself toasted in the process.










b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!
b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!

K-R4D C4LCUL4T0R JU4R3Z

Author:  Trionix
Release Date:  Whenever the next b0g comes out
Platform:  Sharp Graphic Calculators
Version:  EL-9200

Ok, go to create a program, and name it k-rad.  Input the following code:

Print " "
Print " "
Print " "
Print " "
Print " "
Print " "
Print " "
Print "PRESS (CL) TO"
Print "CLEAR ALL DATA"
Print " "
Print " "
Print "PRESS (ON) KEY"
Print "TO CANCEL"
Print " "
Wait 40
ClrT
Print " "
Print " "
Print "  DATA CLEARED"
Wait 1
ClrT
Print " "
Print " "
Wait 1
ClrT
Print " "
Print " "
Print "  DATA CLEARED"
Wait 1
ClrT
Print "REAL MODE"
Print "              0."
End

This program is DAMN useful in exams.  When the teacher comes round to clear the
calculators of all data, simply run this program, and pass it to the teacher,
they'll press the (CL) key, and presume that all formulas have been wiped,
actually leaving the calculator just how it was when you gave it to them.  U can
store whatever programs u need for the exam, and they won't be deleted!  
Although the program isn't an exact representation of what the 'reset' button
does, it's close enough, and if u have an examiner who is a stupid fuck, like I
just did, u can get away with it.  If anyone know how to highlight text, e-mail
me, b0g@b0g.org, cheers, Tri

b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!
b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!b0g!#@!




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